Suspended Chopsticks by Lauren Cho

The first time I encountered fermented food, it felt like an act of betrayal. My parents placed a plate of pungent kimchi before me, their faces alight with expectation. It was as if they were offering me a present instead of what I could only describe as culinary sabotage. The sour, funky aroma wrapped around me, daring me to take a bite. I glared at it, chopsticks in hand, wondering how something so alien could ever belong on my plate. To my seven-year-old self, the concept of fermenting food was bewildering. Why would anyone take perfectly fresh vegetables, season them, and then abandon them to the mercy of time for days, even weeks? It seemed unnecessary, almost absurd. I couldn’t fathom why we couldn’t simply eat them immediately.

And when the dishes finally emerged from their slow alchemical transformation, I despised everything about them: the sharp and tangy aroma that saturated the air, the strange textures, and the way my parents’ faces lit up as though they were savoring something sacred, while I was left glaring at the pungent heap on my plate. As a self-proclaimed picky eater, I approached every meal with suspicion. But fermented dishes were my ultimate rival. Kimchi, in particular, was my sworn nemesis. My parents would place it reverently on the table beside the steaming bowls of rice and soup, urging me to just take one bite. Yet that single bite seemed impossible; a mountain of horror I was unwilling to scale. I was convinced it would taste as offensive as it smelled. My protests often erupted into theatrical performances: exaggerated gags, indignant whining, and even the occasional threat to flee the dinner table altogether.

Eventually, I devised a clever strategy. I’d deftly pick up a piece of the fermented culprit with my chopsticks, place it in my mouth, and pretend to chew. But instead of swallowing, I’d stealthily transfer the offending morsel into a tissue stashed covertly in my lap. With an angelic smile, I’d request permission to visit the bathroom, where I triumphantly disposed of the evidence. It was, in my mind, a flawless ruse—until it wasn’t. My parents eventually caught on to my charade. The suspiciously empty plate coupled with complaints of hunger mere moments after dinner unraveled my elaborate ploy. Their disappointment stung more deeply than I dared to admit.

What my younger self failed to grasp was that these fermented dishes were far more than mere sustenance to my parents—they were conduits to our Korean heritage. Fermentation, an ancient practice born of necessity, had evolved into a culinary art form, a testament to resilience and creativity. Rooted in cultures worldwide, it transcended the mere act of preservation to become a symbol of patience and transformation. For my parents, it was a bridge to their ancestors. Each jar of kimchi or bowl of doenjang (fermented soybean paste) they made was a strong link to traditions forged in a time when survival demanded ingenuity. Through fermentation, they preserved not only food but also the memory of a heritage that thrived despite hardship. My parents weren’t merely offering me food; they were sharing a piece of their identity, a connection to a culture steeped in history. But as a child, all I saw was a plate of sour, smelly vegetables I wanted nothing to do with. Years later, everything changed. During a family trip to Korea, I found myself seated in a modest restaurant tucked within a bustling market. The proprietor, an elderly woman with kind, weathered eyes, presented us with a plate of freshly prepared kimchi. My parents watched me with quiet anticipation as I hesitated, chopsticks suspended mid-air. Perhaps it was the warmth of the setting, or the woman’s heartfelt explanation of how her kimchi recipe had been lovingly passed down through generations. Perhaps it was the dawning awareness that I was now old enough to appreciate the gravity of these moments. Whatever the reasoning, I resolved to take a bite.

To my astonishment, it wasn’t merely tolerable—it was transcendent. The flavors unfolded on my palate: tangy, spicy, subtly sweet, and imbued with an umami depth I had never encountered. For the first time, I understood that this food wasn’t just a dish: it was a lifeline to my parents’ past and, by extension, to my own heritage. That single bite felt like an apology I hadn’t realized I owed them one for all the times I had dismissed what they cherished. In that moment, I glimpsed the quiet pride and pain they must have carried, trying to bridge the gap between their world and mine. That single bite became a revelation, a key unlocking an aspect of myself I had ignored for years.

Now, my refrigerator is perpetually stocked with jars of kimchi, doenjang, and pickled radishes. The scent that once repelled me now evokes a profound sense of nostalgia and comfort. I’ve even embarked on the journey of making my own kimchi with my mother, a labor-intensive process that has deepened my appreciation for the care and dedication my parents invested in every meal. In retrospect, I am profoundly grateful for my parents’ persistence, even in the face of my childish reluctance.

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